Warning: slightly long, grab a beverage.
Cher mes amis,
This is an email of random thoughts and observations.
As you've seen lately in the news, the bombing here
has gotten worse. It's funny how quickly we adjust and
what can become "normal" in everyday life. I no
longer jump when i hear the shelling and bombing,
except when they are really damn close - I am only
human after all. Thursday night's bombing was so crazy
and intense, the house repeatedly shook us all awake
as Israel attacks get closer and closer to the heart
of the city.
My first nights were sleepless and intense. You know
when you're heart pounds so loud it makes you deaf as
the pulsing in your ears reverberates though your
head, and i had to tell my heart to shut the hell up
so i could try to hear the planes and guess where they
might drop next. Well now, I don't even get out of
bed, I colorfully curse and roll over and go
back to sleep and then curse some more for the next
and the next. I nver claimed to be a lady - sorry
mother.
You get used to it but you don't. We were at a
meeting and my elbow loudly hit a window and everyone
jumped in fear. And then there are the children.
Scared by experiences they never should have
had, the children are among those suffering the
most - not just among the highest death tolls or
needing diapers, more than one pair of underwear,
the clothes on their backs they fled with, and
medications for the subsequent skin rashes - but they
are among
the most traumatized.
Unfortunately, those who fled to Beirut from the
fighting in the South, have escaped nothing at all.
Many of the areas in Beirut that have been bombed were
also the areas sheltering the displaced. This week an
entire family that escaped from the south died in an
attack 4 days ago. Those who have not been
redispalced can still feel and hear the bombing around
them.
A friend of mine works in the public garden that has
been turned into a makeshift camp. Many of the
children wet themselves as soon as they hear a bomb
she says. They scream and they shake uncontrollably
other parents report.
The psychological damage abounds as evident by some
volunteers who went to a school to play with some of
the displaced kids. Within minutes children who had
no other way of expressing their trauma and emotions
broke into fights with intense aggression that the
volunteers had to continually try to control. Others
responded differently, one girl sat in a corner
the entire time, facing the wall, unresponsive,
unmoving, her mother and 3 sisters missing for 25
days,
presumed dead.
Schools are indefinitely closed. The displaced are
indefinitely homeless. The country and its
infrastructure are indefinatily dismantled. The
children indefinatily affected.
The ceasefire is on the horizon but it is far from a
reality here in Lebanon, not only because of the
heighten attacks in the last few hours, but from sheer
mistrust undoubtly from Lebanon's long dark history
with Israel. Furthermore, as i have eluded to in
other emails, the country is sharply divided - 18
secs, race, religion, class, politics, the north, the
south, the Bekka mountains, the list goes on. An
example: some displaced have received aid goods with
the Hariri government stamp, these Shiites so despised
Hariri's government that they said, "Thank you, I am
not hungry," and walked away.
Most are worried that the increase in tensions from
the conflict will eventually tear the country apart
once more. Many suspect this is Israel's intention.
The group we are working with is not only
concentrating
on civil resistance against Israel's policies and
aggression, and
solidarity with the south and those who have suffered
the most, but efforts for national unity to prevent
what many Lebanese have expressed as the next possible
civil war.
Another friend came into a cafe to meet me and looked
so tired.
"Didn't you sleep last night?" I asked.
"They called again this morning - 4 a.m.," she said
exhausted. Israel has set up an automated calling
system to call Lebanese citizens around the country at
all times of the day and night to tell them not to
support Hezbollah and that Israel is on their side.
We turned to watch the news in the cafe and saw great
coverage on the convoy and Adam speaking in Arabic,
labled as an American Jewish activist, which made us
smile. Then the
screen shifted to one of their segments showing the
victims of the conflict - men, women, people digging
out the
dead, a rescue worker holding up the dead body of a
baby completely covered in gray ash - the only
discernable color was a sky blue pacifier pinned to
his shirt. The screen shifts again to young Israeli
children concentrating as they write their names and
messages on bombs about to be loaded onto Israeli
planes and "delivered" to Lebanon.
"From Israel, with Love."
Some of you may think my emails extremely biased, and
while I do have my own political views, I have
refrained from entering them here. As I am in
Lebanon, I can only tell you about my observations
here. I also find added value in that, as Israel
certainly has inequitable press coverage, aid,
assistance, bias, and scales of suffering and
destruction. These emails are simply glimpses from
the other side.
To Israel's surprise it took more than the declared 10
days to stamp out Hezbollah. In their attempt, they
have inflamed and further solidified anger and hatred
among hundreds of thousands of Lebanese citizens who
have unjustly suffered, have been unjustly targeted,
and will continue to unjustly suffer from the effects
of war
for decades to come.
Hezbollah had some concentrated areas of support.
Because they are effectively fighting the source of
grief for so many Lebanese, they have now gained wide
spread support and respect.
But I beleive both sides have lost.
It took Lebanon 20 years to rebuild from the last
civil war. This, the Lebanese tell me, was suppose to
be the best summer in Lebanon ever. Everything they
have rebuilt has now been destroyed. We haven't had
running water in our apartment for almost a week, the
electricity comes and goes, the fuel is almost gone
and most sources for stroage have been destroyed, all
major roads and bridges - gone, most part of the
country hav been effectively cut off from eachother,
one of Lebanon's solid pillars of its economy -
tourism, gone, many academics, artists, businessmen
and civil servants - fled the country - the country
has been systematically destyed.
We drove by some beaches south of Beirut, the sands
were oozing with
black oil, remnants from the spill weeks ago that the
current has carried along the entire coast o Lebanon.
A containment crew should have come in immediately to
professionally clean the spill, they were not allowed
in. Some activists and scientists are looking into
the uranium damage possibly left by destroyed tanks
and certain artillery - making the land deadly to
inhabitants.
Yesterday, back in Beirut we saw leaflets falling in
downtown Beirut, no doubt wind blown from southern
parts of the city where Israel has continued to
bombard. Notifying civilians before you bomb them is
still attacking unarmed civilian populations and a
direct violation of the Geneva conventions.
As I am writing this the bombing is continuing and I
admit my heart beats irregularly.
If the ceasefire does not call for Israel to withdraw
its troops, is it going to last? That is if it's
implemented at all.
My friend and I tear ourselves away from the TV and my
friend turns to me and says," did you finally have
water last night?"
I laugh. "At least the electricity cut out one minute
before I was about to get into the elevator," I say
thankfully, "I just bought a bottle of water to
bathe."
She looked at me, but more looked through me, her
large black eyes lost in thought.
"That's how my friend died you know. She was a taking
a shower when a bomb hit. They had to carry her out
naked, " she said quietly starring off into the
distance.
Sunday, August 13, 2006
The convoy
Hello mes amis!
I hope you are all well.
As you may or may not know the convoy started off with great success and momentum. We had 50 cars and well over 100 people join our convoy and were prepared to journey to the south depite a deliberate attack on an unarmed convoy less than 12 hours before our own. The energy was amazing, and for me, the best part was the look on the faces of the lebanese people as we drove by - 50 cars with Lebanese flags driving through beirut and through town after town. people came out and waved and cheered and showed peace signs in support. Their pride was infectous. It was a burning hot day and we were handed cold water by merchants who refused to take any money and prayed for are safety and the success of our mission.
Once our convoy was stopped and there was no negotiating with the ministry, we took our backpacks and aid and attempted to walk on foot past the military and continue to the south, but we were also prevented from continuing any further.
unfortunately, a call came from the ministry of interior and informed the army not to let us pass, althought every other car was allowed to pass, military and civilian alike. draw from this what you will - quite obvviously the decision to not let us path was highly political, but we have choosen not take take this position - there is no need for internal lebanese struggle ontop of everything else.
if you've seen any negative press - it was unfortunate that a few individuals were extremely emotional and wished to confron the lebanese army that was preventing our passage.
......
I just stopped writing you for 20 minutes as about 6 explosions were just heard near by. on the eve of this supposed ceasefire, the attacks continue with more intensity as Isreal, I assume, attempts to try and take out as many underground caches of Hezbollah - the problem there are civilians above them...
What has come out of yesterday is not only a ton of positive press coverage about the action spreading all over Lebanon and many parts of the world, but most importantly - more people have been inspired to join and find out what else they can do to stand in solidarity and work towads national unity. we are being very careful as many of these actions may have different places for internationals, and certainly all of them must be lebanese driven. but they have asked for our asisstance and we are moving forward with the campaign, working to strengthen the campaign and it's membership, and concrete actions.
what everyone is talking about? the fear of internal tensions riping the country apart.
I have other updates for you, but i just wanted to let you know that i am fine and give you an update on yesterday's actions. below is the release we sent out on the action.
I hope you all are well,
Aisha
________________
Lebanon: An Open Country for Civil Resistance
Regarding the August 12th Planned Convoy to the South
August 13, 2006
Press Contacts:
Rasha Salti: 03 970855 Wadih Al Asmar: 70 950780
Contact for internationals: Huwaida Arraf: 70 974452
Beirut, August 13- Marking the passing of a month on Israel�s war unleashed on Lebanon, we, members of civil society that had mobilized from the first days to aid and support the victims of this aggression, launched this Campaign of Civil Resistance. In addition to marking the one-month anniversary of this latest Israeli war against Lebanon, and the anniversary of the Geneva Conventions, (passed August 12, 1949), on August 12, communities around the world protested against the Israeli aggression on Lebanon.
Here, in Lebanon, the first convoy of civilians was to depart on August 12 to the south, whose final destination, pending questions of security on the ground, was to reach Nabatiyeh. The mission of the convoy, as the mission of the campaign, is to mark a stand in solidarity and unity of all the people of Lebanon, to break the siege on the south, and to defy Israel�s policy of forced expulsions, terror and organized massacres of civilians.
We convened on Martyrs� Square at 7:00 am on August 12th morning. More than 200 people were gathered, supported by more than 100 participants from 19 countries. Fifty cars, carrying more than 250 rations of food and medicines, with more than 15 representatives from the local and international media, proceeded on the path to the south.
The convoy could not reach its destination because it was forcibly stopped at a passageway, located between the site where the bridge and a gas station were shelled recently, in the coastal village of Na�meh by the Lebanese Internal Security, on orders from the Ministry of Interior.
Despite citing concern for our security, the checkpoint at Na�meh remained open for everyone else, including other convoys.
As members of civil society, while our government�s concern for our safety is appreciated, we disagree with our government�s missive. As members of the civil society organizing for civil resistance against the Israeli aggression on Lebanon, we specifically chose not to protest against the Lebanese government�s decision; our struggle is first and foremost against the Israeli war on our people and our country, and we stand for unity among all Lebanese, embodying plural political perspectives.
Nevertheless, we would like to clarify several points. (1) The Lebanese security forces did have notification of our intention to go to the south. Our convoy was widely publicized in the local and international press, and days before conversations were held with members of the Lebanese security forces. (2) We were organizing, and continue to be organizing, acts of civilian resistance, and not acts of civilian suicide. We were aware of the risks of our action, and we were continuing to study the situation on the ground even during the trip. Our allegiance was not to a particular geographical destination, but to the solidarity with our people and the rejection of Israeli dictates. Furthermore, it is ultimately not a question of risk, but one of choice; Israel has the choice to target and bomb known civilian convoys or not. (3) August 12 marks the launching of this campaign of civil resistance. We will continue to resist aggression until a semblance of justice is achieved, and we will continue to build for practical solidarity after the aggression ceases. (4) Our convoy was successful in gathering a significant number of committed, serious people to express solidarity with Lebanese and with Lebanon.
We are invigorated by the serious, grassroots amount of support that we have inspired. We will build on this support and work towards committed, long-term solidarity with our people in the south and throughout our beloved country.
I hope you are all well.
As you may or may not know the convoy started off with great success and momentum. We had 50 cars and well over 100 people join our convoy and were prepared to journey to the south depite a deliberate attack on an unarmed convoy less than 12 hours before our own. The energy was amazing, and for me, the best part was the look on the faces of the lebanese people as we drove by - 50 cars with Lebanese flags driving through beirut and through town after town. people came out and waved and cheered and showed peace signs in support. Their pride was infectous. It was a burning hot day and we were handed cold water by merchants who refused to take any money and prayed for are safety and the success of our mission.
Once our convoy was stopped and there was no negotiating with the ministry, we took our backpacks and aid and attempted to walk on foot past the military and continue to the south, but we were also prevented from continuing any further.
unfortunately, a call came from the ministry of interior and informed the army not to let us pass, althought every other car was allowed to pass, military and civilian alike. draw from this what you will - quite obvviously the decision to not let us path was highly political, but we have choosen not take take this position - there is no need for internal lebanese struggle ontop of everything else.
if you've seen any negative press - it was unfortunate that a few individuals were extremely emotional and wished to confron the lebanese army that was preventing our passage.
......
I just stopped writing you for 20 minutes as about 6 explosions were just heard near by. on the eve of this supposed ceasefire, the attacks continue with more intensity as Isreal, I assume, attempts to try and take out as many underground caches of Hezbollah - the problem there are civilians above them...
What has come out of yesterday is not only a ton of positive press coverage about the action spreading all over Lebanon and many parts of the world, but most importantly - more people have been inspired to join and find out what else they can do to stand in solidarity and work towads national unity. we are being very careful as many of these actions may have different places for internationals, and certainly all of them must be lebanese driven. but they have asked for our asisstance and we are moving forward with the campaign, working to strengthen the campaign and it's membership, and concrete actions.
what everyone is talking about? the fear of internal tensions riping the country apart.
I have other updates for you, but i just wanted to let you know that i am fine and give you an update on yesterday's actions. below is the release we sent out on the action.
I hope you all are well,
Aisha
________________
Lebanon: An Open Country for Civil Resistance
Regarding the August 12th Planned Convoy to the South
August 13, 2006
Press Contacts:
Rasha Salti: 03 970855 Wadih Al Asmar: 70 950780
Contact for internationals: Huwaida Arraf: 70 974452
Beirut, August 13- Marking the passing of a month on Israel�s war unleashed on Lebanon, we, members of civil society that had mobilized from the first days to aid and support the victims of this aggression, launched this Campaign of Civil Resistance. In addition to marking the one-month anniversary of this latest Israeli war against Lebanon, and the anniversary of the Geneva Conventions, (passed August 12, 1949), on August 12, communities around the world protested against the Israeli aggression on Lebanon.
Here, in Lebanon, the first convoy of civilians was to depart on August 12 to the south, whose final destination, pending questions of security on the ground, was to reach Nabatiyeh. The mission of the convoy, as the mission of the campaign, is to mark a stand in solidarity and unity of all the people of Lebanon, to break the siege on the south, and to defy Israel�s policy of forced expulsions, terror and organized massacres of civilians.
We convened on Martyrs� Square at 7:00 am on August 12th morning. More than 200 people were gathered, supported by more than 100 participants from 19 countries. Fifty cars, carrying more than 250 rations of food and medicines, with more than 15 representatives from the local and international media, proceeded on the path to the south.
The convoy could not reach its destination because it was forcibly stopped at a passageway, located between the site where the bridge and a gas station were shelled recently, in the coastal village of Na�meh by the Lebanese Internal Security, on orders from the Ministry of Interior.
Despite citing concern for our security, the checkpoint at Na�meh remained open for everyone else, including other convoys.
As members of civil society, while our government�s concern for our safety is appreciated, we disagree with our government�s missive. As members of the civil society organizing for civil resistance against the Israeli aggression on Lebanon, we specifically chose not to protest against the Lebanese government�s decision; our struggle is first and foremost against the Israeli war on our people and our country, and we stand for unity among all Lebanese, embodying plural political perspectives.
Nevertheless, we would like to clarify several points. (1) The Lebanese security forces did have notification of our intention to go to the south. Our convoy was widely publicized in the local and international press, and days before conversations were held with members of the Lebanese security forces. (2) We were organizing, and continue to be organizing, acts of civilian resistance, and not acts of civilian suicide. We were aware of the risks of our action, and we were continuing to study the situation on the ground even during the trip. Our allegiance was not to a particular geographical destination, but to the solidarity with our people and the rejection of Israeli dictates. Furthermore, it is ultimately not a question of risk, but one of choice; Israel has the choice to target and bomb known civilian convoys or not. (3) August 12 marks the launching of this campaign of civil resistance. We will continue to resist aggression until a semblance of justice is achieved, and we will continue to build for practical solidarity after the aggression ceases. (4) Our convoy was successful in gathering a significant number of committed, serious people to express solidarity with Lebanese and with Lebanon.
We are invigorated by the serious, grassroots amount of support that we have inspired. We will build on this support and work towards committed, long-term solidarity with our people in the south and throughout our beloved country.
Friday, August 11, 2006
Donations
Hello Everyone,
I'm sorry for the sporadic information about donations in my last email. I wanted to make this one clearer.
As of right now I have two initiatives that can be donated to.
1) Sami Doun is the organization I was referring to in my last email. They are a network of all Lebanese volunteers who are now focused on aiding the displaced. They are a fantastic group of people that i am working directly with - aiding populations living in public gardens, buildings, the parking lots, and some of the schools. They are also coordinating with smaller grassroots NGOs and have a direct hand on the pulse of where money and relief is needed including areas and villages in the South.
There is immediate need for:
medicines
diapers
mattresses
underwear
clothes
toys
the list goes on
However, shipping things here is a nightmare and next to impossible, thus the most effective way money so they can purchase what they need and distribute it them.
They are not only doing relief but outreach and media campaigning - trying to provide information on their website www.samidoun.org. There are also video letters i strongly encourage you to watch. They do have donation information directly on their website however it is NOT a 501-c-3 - meaning, it not can NOT be used as a tax write off. However, if you would like to write off this donation and know others who would (especially those donating larger amounts) they can send check too:
IMAGINE LIFE
c/o Mahaba Al-Wazir
1318 Pennsylvania Ave SE Suite 1B
Washington DC 20003
put in the memo line "Adam Shapiro/Sami Doun"
IN EITHER CASE, please tell me how much money has been sent to Imagine Life for Sami Doun, and we have a way to front the money and get it to them immediately to start buying medic ins, etc. so we don't have to wait for mail, banks, transfers, etc. I would also like to keep track of donations please.
2) for our work here organizing a civilian resistance campaign, human convoys, and all future activities (which includes bringing the above supplies to trapped villages).
people can check out www.lebanonsolidarity.org
people can write a check to:
IMAGINE LIFE
c/o Mahaba Al-Wazir
1318 Pennsylvania Ave SE Suite 1B
Washington DC 20003
put in the memo line "Adam Shapiro/"
I hope this is clearer. Please let me know if you have questions.
Warmest Regards,
Aisha
I'm sorry for the sporadic information about donations in my last email. I wanted to make this one clearer.
As of right now I have two initiatives that can be donated to.
1) Sami Doun is the organization I was referring to in my last email. They are a network of all Lebanese volunteers who are now focused on aiding the displaced. They are a fantastic group of people that i am working directly with - aiding populations living in public gardens, buildings, the parking lots, and some of the schools. They are also coordinating with smaller grassroots NGOs and have a direct hand on the pulse of where money and relief is needed including areas and villages in the South.
There is immediate need for:
medicines
diapers
mattresses
underwear
clothes
toys
the list goes on
However, shipping things here is a nightmare and next to impossible, thus the most effective way money so they can purchase what they need and distribute it them.
They are not only doing relief but outreach and media campaigning - trying to provide information on their website www.samidoun.org. There are also video letters i strongly encourage you to watch. They do have donation information directly on their website however it is NOT a 501-c-3 - meaning, it not can NOT be used as a tax write off. However, if you would like to write off this donation and know others who would (especially those donating larger amounts) they can send check too:
IMAGINE LIFE
c/o Mahaba Al-Wazir
1318 Pennsylvania Ave SE Suite 1B
Washington DC 20003
put in the memo line "Adam Shapiro/Sami Doun"
IN EITHER CASE, please tell me how much money has been sent to Imagine Life for Sami Doun, and we have a way to front the money and get it to them immediately to start buying medic ins, etc. so we don't have to wait for mail, banks, transfers, etc. I would also like to keep track of donations please.
2) for our work here organizing a civilian resistance campaign, human convoys, and all future activities (which includes bringing the above supplies to trapped villages).
people can check out www.lebanonsolidarity.org
people can write a check to:
IMAGINE LIFE
c/o Mahaba Al-Wazir
1318 Pennsylvania Ave SE Suite 1B
Washington DC 20003
put in the memo line "Adam Shapiro/"
I hope this is clearer. Please let me know if you have questions.
Warmest Regards,
Aisha
Wednesday, August 09, 2006
A bit of good happy news! :)
Hey Y'all,
just wanted to give you a bit of happy good news - you can now get our film Darfur Diaries on Amazon.com!
Sorry, i'm just a little bit happy about that! :)
Hopefully coming to a Netflix and Blockbuster near you - we'll find out about that soon.
much love,
me
just wanted to give you a bit of happy good news - you can now get our film Darfur Diaries on Amazon.com!
Sorry, i'm just a little bit happy about that! :)
Hopefully coming to a Netflix and Blockbuster near you - we'll find out about that soon.
much love,
me
Tuesday, August 08, 2006
Dahiya
hey kids
sorry
i'm having a problem gettting my emails out. this is actually from a few days ago - some of my emails are not getting through apparently.
you're probably wondering how the hell i have time to write these emails - 1) i need to be on computers parts of the day to mobilize support 2) my early morning activity during Israeli symphony time is to write updates to you.
I think the pictures speak for themselves so I will say little. I'm trying to upload them.
We got permission to enter Dahiya. It is one of the south Beirut suburds that you hear about on the news that continues to be bombed. We went on Saturday. I said little while i was there. It was twillight, we entered the abandoned town - it was silent, spare, hollow. we drove down a main street with a concrete divide, the streets were covered in dust. We saw a little rubble, some men motioned to us to park and follow them. they flanked us from the front and back and informed us to be quick, they were expecting israeli planes to revisit soon.
We walked, we turned a corner, we stopped.
The distruction was unimaginable. Buildings, tall buildings - 10, 12, 15 stories or more had come crashing down, spilling into the streets. Wires hung everywhere. The colors were of the dull greys and tans of dirt, dust, concrete - everything was covered in grey ash. They buildings had massive, gapping holes from where they were hit. Others were simply reduced to rubble, not a single identifiable story remained. Some were even holes in the ground, sucked into the madness of war, closer to this supposed hell - if it can get any worse that what already exsists on Earth.
It had been a fully breathing city - there were clothes hanging out to dry, grocery stores, clothing shops - everything was frozen in erry horror. Said to be a strong hold of Hezbollah, what remained was the blown up loves of people, thousands of them - pieces of clothes, shoes, books, beds, phones, charis, shutters, pillows, tables, unidentifiable objects....
ashes of lives
ashes of death
The only sounds were our feet cruching the debris below as we tried to navigate the destruction building after building, block after block. It smelled of burning and decay, yet my eyes won the sensory war of this overwhleming scene - grey. grey, black, grey. And just when I thought there couldn't be anymore - it kept going.
Some of the guys came after me, please don't linger Huweida translated and the man pointed to the sky and ushered me on. Hurry, he motioned with his hands.
I turned a corner and saw a giantic pile of rumble that didn't make any sense - where did it come from? it was so immense.
"This used to be an 11 story building, " a man said. A suction bomb leveled the entire thing. I gasped. Not a single structure remained that remotely resembled a building - in it's place was a hole in the ground. I stood in disbelief.
I looked down and there was a little yellow and black toy truck that had survived better than the building - probably blown from somewhere else. Suddenly my eyes scanned the ground all around me and the remains of children's toys were everywhere - torn apart, buried, crushed, burned, or lying in debris. My eyes darted in different directions and I became desparate to find them - these remains. Their remains. And then i froze in my tracks. I heard something - a ringing. I knew instantly that it wasn't a cell phone from our group. My eyes followed the sound with dread and found it's source in a blown out 3rd story apartment blackened on the outside.
i don't know what it was about that moment, a phone ringing, a sign of life echoing through a place of death. Please don't ask me to describe it.
I heard something foggily in the distance, it became clearer as my head cleared and i tore my eyes away from the apartment. Someone roughly 20 feet away was warning me to step away from the live wire i was near.
The phone was still ringing, echoing. I stepped away.
A Lebanese activist was crying, she was displaced from the south and was overwhelmed by this destruction in the north. She cried. The guys ordered us to leave as they scanned the skies. everyone made their way to the road, but i lingered for just a bit - scanning for remains, watching, photographing, remembering.
We were covered in dust. Israel did not bomb that Saturday but on Sunday.
Why was that person calling? Didn't they know?
sorry
i'm having a problem gettting my emails out. this is actually from a few days ago - some of my emails are not getting through apparently.
you're probably wondering how the hell i have time to write these emails - 1) i need to be on computers parts of the day to mobilize support 2) my early morning activity during Israeli symphony time is to write updates to you.
I think the pictures speak for themselves so I will say little. I'm trying to upload them.
We got permission to enter Dahiya. It is one of the south Beirut suburds that you hear about on the news that continues to be bombed. We went on Saturday. I said little while i was there. It was twillight, we entered the abandoned town - it was silent, spare, hollow. we drove down a main street with a concrete divide, the streets were covered in dust. We saw a little rubble, some men motioned to us to park and follow them. they flanked us from the front and back and informed us to be quick, they were expecting israeli planes to revisit soon.
We walked, we turned a corner, we stopped.
The distruction was unimaginable. Buildings, tall buildings - 10, 12, 15 stories or more had come crashing down, spilling into the streets. Wires hung everywhere. The colors were of the dull greys and tans of dirt, dust, concrete - everything was covered in grey ash. They buildings had massive, gapping holes from where they were hit. Others were simply reduced to rubble, not a single identifiable story remained. Some were even holes in the ground, sucked into the madness of war, closer to this supposed hell - if it can get any worse that what already exsists on Earth.
It had been a fully breathing city - there were clothes hanging out to dry, grocery stores, clothing shops - everything was frozen in erry horror. Said to be a strong hold of Hezbollah, what remained was the blown up loves of people, thousands of them - pieces of clothes, shoes, books, beds, phones, charis, shutters, pillows, tables, unidentifiable objects....
ashes of lives
ashes of death
The only sounds were our feet cruching the debris below as we tried to navigate the destruction building after building, block after block. It smelled of burning and decay, yet my eyes won the sensory war of this overwhleming scene - grey. grey, black, grey. And just when I thought there couldn't be anymore - it kept going.
Some of the guys came after me, please don't linger Huweida translated and the man pointed to the sky and ushered me on. Hurry, he motioned with his hands.
I turned a corner and saw a giantic pile of rumble that didn't make any sense - where did it come from? it was so immense.
"This used to be an 11 story building, " a man said. A suction bomb leveled the entire thing. I gasped. Not a single structure remained that remotely resembled a building - in it's place was a hole in the ground. I stood in disbelief.
I looked down and there was a little yellow and black toy truck that had survived better than the building - probably blown from somewhere else. Suddenly my eyes scanned the ground all around me and the remains of children's toys were everywhere - torn apart, buried, crushed, burned, or lying in debris. My eyes darted in different directions and I became desparate to find them - these remains. Their remains. And then i froze in my tracks. I heard something - a ringing. I knew instantly that it wasn't a cell phone from our group. My eyes followed the sound with dread and found it's source in a blown out 3rd story apartment blackened on the outside.
i don't know what it was about that moment, a phone ringing, a sign of life echoing through a place of death. Please don't ask me to describe it.
I heard something foggily in the distance, it became clearer as my head cleared and i tore my eyes away from the apartment. Someone roughly 20 feet away was warning me to step away from the live wire i was near.
The phone was still ringing, echoing. I stepped away.
A Lebanese activist was crying, she was displaced from the south and was overwhelmed by this destruction in the north. She cried. The guys ordered us to leave as they scanned the skies. everyone made their way to the road, but i lingered for just a bit - scanning for remains, watching, photographing, remembering.
We were covered in dust. Israel did not bomb that Saturday but on Sunday.
Why was that person calling? Didn't they know?
We need your help!
Ok, finally what the hell am i doing here?
I am wirting to you quickly and informally as I have much to do and many people to contact.
Long story short, after many meetings with local activists, NGOs, etc. we have come up with a campaign of Lebanese Civilian Resistance Against Israeli Agression. This campaign will come in parts and serve to do many things:
Citizen Convoy THIS Saturday the 12th.
1) provide much needed relief to those trapped in south Lebanon and who are still not receiving aid (this information is CONFIRMED) through citizen convoys of all Lebanese and internationals in solidarity.
2) Promote national unity and inclusion for all parts of Lebanese society - Shiite, Sunni, Druse, Christian, the displaces, upper class, lower class - all have been invited aside from any politicians or political groups.
3) Send a political message to the Israel and the international communtiy that this is their country and their people whom they will travel to and support without seeking Israel's permission despite the continued bombing of the very roads that are preventing this very aid from being delivered.
In short - we are organizing hundreds of people and roughly 100 cars to carry much needed aid, supplies and medicine to the south. We wil be reaching a southern location and then branching out to reach the various villages that have been cut off. We may have to bring them by hand and traverse the countryside since mostroads are gone. We are counting on safety in numbers, having a large international presence and excellent media coverage for security. The state of Israel and the Israeli press are all being notified and international media governments are being informed of this notification so that Israel can not claim ignorance to this event and attack "by mistake." Appropirate permission has been obtained from Hezbollah to ensure not being fired upon from the Lebanese side, they have agreed to cooperate. All cars will be covered with a Lebanese flag, no other flags will be presented, humanitarian aid agencies have been informed but they must abide by the same rules to join the convoy. this is not an international organization response, this is a Lebanese civilian resistance convoy joined by the support of internatonals to join in solidarity.
There will be other convoys and missions to follow, many based on information from this first mission and info adam, huwaida, myself and others will collect in the next few days with some Lebanese activists.
We are also working on assisting the return of some of the displaced in definance of Israel's attempt to cleanse the south of it's people.
Many things are needed. Though we have been able to secure food aid supplies from humanitarian organizations on the ground for this mission, gas is serious problem and we will need to gather funds to support future convoys. There are also other logistical costs we will need to raise funds to cover.
Second, many have asked me about the children and then displaces. I have found a great Lebanese organization that is helping the 100,00s of displaced and especially the children called Sami Doun. I have seen their work directly - not only providing much need supplies like beds, clothes, diapers and necessary goods - which are still very much lacking, but also other important things like toys for children. I have gotten to know many of them personally, all of whom are volunteers, are amazing and sacrificing much everyday to carry out this work. they also coordinate with other grassroots NGOs to try and ensure all the needs are being met for this overwhelming population. They are also focusing on the displaced in the buildings scattered around the city - the ones i told you are being ignored by the government. And they work in the mountains and in the south.
I'm afraid for the moment, sending money is a much better alternative than sending actual supplies because getting themhere can be a logistical nightmare depending on Israel's bombing of strategic roads.
For those who can raise funds this is a great organization, and i can make sure that the money goes where it is directly needed and will have an incredible impact.
For those of you who have the capacity to help, raise funds, work on coordination, have media access, raise funds, etc. please let me know, we can really use your help.
We will also need volunteers for these convoys and some to work with these organizations.
There is a website but it was just put up and is still in progress. if anyone can offer "on call" web assistance it would be greatly appreciated as there is a 7 hour time difference and we may need updates more regularly.
the website is www.lebanonsolidairty.org
Please spread the word and tell me what you're interested in and if you can help at all.
Also please be aware that Saturday Sugust 12th is an International Solidarity Day with Lebanon and their are activities are protests happening all over the world. Find the nearest protect near you - damn, i can not say that with a striaght face.
anyway, that's the LONG short story. I have a ton to do and have been here eight years trying to upload 12 measly photos!! THE AGONY!!
one of the press releases is pasted below. The call for action is on the wedsite.
much love and one more update to send you written at 4 a.m.- good times. damn these photos and man do need a shower!
i'm noy even spell checking this - gotta run
much love,
me
I am wirting to you quickly and informally as I have much to do and many people to contact.
Long story short, after many meetings with local activists, NGOs, etc. we have come up with a campaign of Lebanese Civilian Resistance Against Israeli Agression. This campaign will come in parts and serve to do many things:
Citizen Convoy THIS Saturday the 12th.
1) provide much needed relief to those trapped in south Lebanon and who are still not receiving aid (this information is CONFIRMED) through citizen convoys of all Lebanese and internationals in solidarity.
2) Promote national unity and inclusion for all parts of Lebanese society - Shiite, Sunni, Druse, Christian, the displaces, upper class, lower class - all have been invited aside from any politicians or political groups.
3) Send a political message to the Israel and the international communtiy that this is their country and their people whom they will travel to and support without seeking Israel's permission despite the continued bombing of the very roads that are preventing this very aid from being delivered.
In short - we are organizing hundreds of people and roughly 100 cars to carry much needed aid, supplies and medicine to the south. We wil be reaching a southern location and then branching out to reach the various villages that have been cut off. We may have to bring them by hand and traverse the countryside since mostroads are gone. We are counting on safety in numbers, having a large international presence and excellent media coverage for security. The state of Israel and the Israeli press are all being notified and international media governments are being informed of this notification so that Israel can not claim ignorance to this event and attack "by mistake." Appropirate permission has been obtained from Hezbollah to ensure not being fired upon from the Lebanese side, they have agreed to cooperate. All cars will be covered with a Lebanese flag, no other flags will be presented, humanitarian aid agencies have been informed but they must abide by the same rules to join the convoy. this is not an international organization response, this is a Lebanese civilian resistance convoy joined by the support of internatonals to join in solidarity.
There will be other convoys and missions to follow, many based on information from this first mission and info adam, huwaida, myself and others will collect in the next few days with some Lebanese activists.
We are also working on assisting the return of some of the displaced in definance of Israel's attempt to cleanse the south of it's people.
Many things are needed. Though we have been able to secure food aid supplies from humanitarian organizations on the ground for this mission, gas is serious problem and we will need to gather funds to support future convoys. There are also other logistical costs we will need to raise funds to cover.
Second, many have asked me about the children and then displaces. I have found a great Lebanese organization that is helping the 100,00s of displaced and especially the children called Sami Doun. I have seen their work directly - not only providing much need supplies like beds, clothes, diapers and necessary goods - which are still very much lacking, but also other important things like toys for children. I have gotten to know many of them personally, all of whom are volunteers, are amazing and sacrificing much everyday to carry out this work. they also coordinate with other grassroots NGOs to try and ensure all the needs are being met for this overwhelming population. They are also focusing on the displaced in the buildings scattered around the city - the ones i told you are being ignored by the government. And they work in the mountains and in the south.
I'm afraid for the moment, sending money is a much better alternative than sending actual supplies because getting themhere can be a logistical nightmare depending on Israel's bombing of strategic roads.
For those who can raise funds this is a great organization, and i can make sure that the money goes where it is directly needed and will have an incredible impact.
For those of you who have the capacity to help, raise funds, work on coordination, have media access, raise funds, etc. please let me know, we can really use your help.
We will also need volunteers for these convoys and some to work with these organizations.
There is a website but it was just put up and is still in progress. if anyone can offer "on call" web assistance it would be greatly appreciated as there is a 7 hour time difference and we may need updates more regularly.
the website is www.lebanonsolidairty.org
Please spread the word and tell me what you're interested in and if you can help at all.
Also please be aware that Saturday Sugust 12th is an International Solidarity Day with Lebanon and their are activities are protests happening all over the world. Find the nearest protect near you - damn, i can not say that with a striaght face.
anyway, that's the LONG short story. I have a ton to do and have been here eight years trying to upload 12 measly photos!! THE AGONY!!
one of the press releases is pasted below. The call for action is on the wedsite.
much love and one more update to send you written at 4 a.m.- good times. damn these photos and man do need a shower!
i'm noy even spell checking this - gotta run
much love,
me
Monday, August 07, 2006
Beirut
Our meetings and activities continue at rapid pace. we've been keeping a crazy schedule - work all day, have breakfast at maybe 4 pm, work some more, hopefully grab a late night nibble, go to bed at roughly 3 and the bombing usually starts around 4, fall asleep at sunrise and up at 10 am to start the day once more. it's of no matter though, and i think we've barely noticed that it's odd except when i write it here, but I am happy at work.
Though the nights are rough, last a few bombs came rather close, you can feel the vibrations everywhere, car alarms going off, and planes - always the planes flying over head that leave you wondering exactly where they plan to unload their cargo next.
Beirut is an amazing city and not a day goes by that i don't wish i had come here earlier and under different circumstances. the city cascades into the ocean and buildings and old fashioned french colonial homes hug the hillsides all straining to get a glimpse of the beautfiul azure waters.
Modern glass towers cast shadows over pockmarked overrun buildings left standing from the country's long civil war. Just as diverse as the buildings are the people, a woman fully veiled in religious tradition walks past a woman in the lastest skin-baring, tight European fashions. Men in long white robes drink tea on the corner as young men in wife beaters ride by on scooters and Ray-Bans. (Speaking of men, allow me to be shamefully honest in my strictly neutral observation that Lebanese men are.....really hot! lord mercy!! somehow being here during a war and having come to help, i feel it more than an inappropriate time to...enjoy all that Lebanon has to offer - but certainly this artful sightseeing requires another visit under different circumstances! now to continue with our regularily scheduled programming - ) Yet, I can only imagine what this city must have been like a few weeks ago. Now it is quiet. Many stores are closed, many who could, fled the city, those who could not no longer stay in the streets long after dark. The bombed areas of the city are locked down as security zones and we are forbidden to enter, so i have only seen in areas of the city that have been untouched. However, we just gained permission a few hours ago and will be visiting some areas later.
But now that i've been around a bit, the evidence of war is everywhere. Tents spill into hospital parking lots, public schools are overflowing with the internally displaced who sleep on every square foot, every staircase, every doorway. I walked by the city's public garden to find clothes hanging everywhere. A closer look revealed hundreds and hundreds of displaced numbering near a thousand. And there are more, dispersed from building to building, in the mountains, everywhere they could find escape from the South. And so they fled here where the bombing has continued and the children are still paralized in fear.
There is so much to tell you I hardly know where to begin. I need to ask you for help with my work, but we are just about to solidify our action plans and I want to give you all confirmed information. I want to tell you about other things I have seen and heard and experienced, but perhaps right now, as i have a hour break, I'll just tell you some of what I believe you don't hear on the news. And yes it's true, I have my own political beliefs about the situation, but I'll reserve those and simply tell you what i have seen, gathered and experienced.
The Humanitarian Situation:
The humanitarian situation is grave and unfortunatley complicated. It is grave in the South because as Israel strategically bombed the roads and bridges, they effectively cut off entire villages and trapped populations. Many have evacuated but some have not. Some were too old, some disabled, some stayed with those who could not leave, others stayed because they had no where else to go, and some stayed because it was their home and their right to stay and not be scared off their land.
And so they have been sending out calls for help, it has been over 20 days, and the International Red Cross has responded. But accordingly to many in the South, they have responded poorly, aiding the easier to reach populations and failing to reach many others. The UN has decided to directly coordinate with the State of Israel giving them the GPS coordinates of all their trucks and effectively gaining Israeli permission before delivering. This has further complicated the jobs and coordination of other NGOs who are not given access to aid certain population by Israel and therefore fear for their security. However, Israel is able to claim strict coordination with the UN and therefore that they are humanitarians.
Israel has also claimed to allow fuel shipments into Lebanon. They have not. There are tankers off the coast of Lebanon waiting to deliver their supplies and they are blocked by Israeli ships. Too many fuel trucks from Syria have been targeted for anyone to attempt to make another try. Cars line up for as far as the eye can see at the gas stations that have not been bombed and wait for there ration of less tha $10 of fuel - which is all they are allowed to recieve at one time. The rumor is that Lebanon may run out in just a few days - further crippling the country and it's citizens. Crippling Hezbollah you ask? No, not at all. They have their own supplies.
The Lebanese Red Cross is stretched to the limit trying to reach these desperate populations in the South, but they do not have the resources and capacities of the International Red Cross. According to aid workers in the south, some NGOs gather aid in a certral location and invite villagers to come get it themselves - a nearly impossible task. Kind of like a person calling 911, and the operator tells them to find the nearest ambulance for help.
In Beirut, it is complicated here as well. You have humndreds of thousands of displaced that have poored into Beirut, and unfortunately they were not well accounted for. A Lebanese Ministry and local NGOs have been tackling the difficult battle of providing aid to all of these people. However, there is no central database. Some NGOs work in overlapping schools and counted the same populations twice - what does this mean? Some schools will receive meals twice in a row, others don't recieve food for two days. Yet another problem, the thousands of displaced that were placed in buildings around the city - they were never counted by the state and therefore recieve absolutely no aid from the state whatsoever.
And there is another probelm. Sometimes there are problems with slogans like "One Nation, One People," because as we know from Lebanese history, it is a country of many peoples who do not identify with one another, and unfortunately can also have great prejudices against those not of their own. Hundreds of thousands of Shiits have now entered some Sunni, Christian, and Druse areas, and though many have poured out to help the displaced, they are wary of the displaced staying too long and "wearing out their welcome." Others are supicious and do not trust them, and a Southern told me that she came from the mountains where many displaced have fled and the local population lock the buildings at night so that the Shiits can not freely move around and cause "trouble."
Back in Beirut, on the verge of a class war, local hotels have opened their doors to some of the poorest people in Lebanon, made comepletely destitute by this war. Well, that is opened their doors if you can pay several hundred US dollars for a week, some hotels are even charging $100/day. The public park I mentioned above? Imagine the Upper East side of Mahattan being overrun with refugees from Harlem who have pitched tents or are sleeping out in the open in Central Park, hang their clothes everywhere, and littering the streets to escape the park walls before dark when they are forced back inside. Unhappy upper class Mahattaners? You betcha.
What everyone can agree on is that tensions are running high. The displaced know they are unwlecomed and resent it to say the least. Those that have "helped" their Lebanese brethern fell that they have done their job and now wish for life to return to normal. I passed by a young Lebanese man yesterday who was expressing his anger at not being able to go the beach because of the war, and has to instead go to the pool now. Everyone suffers in different ways.
Yet, I am not trying to paint you a poor picture of the Lebanese. On the contrary, I have met the most beautiful people who are scarficing their very lives to help their countrymen and who speak for the time of national untiy to be now, if there ever was one. And least we forget Hurricane Katrina and how these very same prejuidces wretched out of our own society - certainly we are no one to judge.
And unfortunately, the international organizations that are here have been no better. I speak not of Foreign governments and imbalanced UN resolutions, I speak of international aid agencies. A women went to an international aid coordination meeting of all the international NGOs, her report - disgusting. She said the meeting was terrible, the organizations bickered among themselves and agreed on nothing.
I fear I have already gone on too long and this is only the tip of the ice burg. I should end my email here before your eyes cross. I will be writing you shortly about my work and our plans and asking for your help if you don't mind.
My opportunity to write you these updates are going to disappear shortly, but i will do my best.
much love,
Aisha
Though the nights are rough, last a few bombs came rather close, you can feel the vibrations everywhere, car alarms going off, and planes - always the planes flying over head that leave you wondering exactly where they plan to unload their cargo next.
Beirut is an amazing city and not a day goes by that i don't wish i had come here earlier and under different circumstances. the city cascades into the ocean and buildings and old fashioned french colonial homes hug the hillsides all straining to get a glimpse of the beautfiul azure waters.
Modern glass towers cast shadows over pockmarked overrun buildings left standing from the country's long civil war. Just as diverse as the buildings are the people, a woman fully veiled in religious tradition walks past a woman in the lastest skin-baring, tight European fashions. Men in long white robes drink tea on the corner as young men in wife beaters ride by on scooters and Ray-Bans. (Speaking of men, allow me to be shamefully honest in my strictly neutral observation that Lebanese men are.....really hot! lord mercy!! somehow being here during a war and having come to help, i feel it more than an inappropriate time to...enjoy all that Lebanon has to offer - but certainly this artful sightseeing requires another visit under different circumstances! now to continue with our regularily scheduled programming - ) Yet, I can only imagine what this city must have been like a few weeks ago. Now it is quiet. Many stores are closed, many who could, fled the city, those who could not no longer stay in the streets long after dark. The bombed areas of the city are locked down as security zones and we are forbidden to enter, so i have only seen in areas of the city that have been untouched. However, we just gained permission a few hours ago and will be visiting some areas later.
But now that i've been around a bit, the evidence of war is everywhere. Tents spill into hospital parking lots, public schools are overflowing with the internally displaced who sleep on every square foot, every staircase, every doorway. I walked by the city's public garden to find clothes hanging everywhere. A closer look revealed hundreds and hundreds of displaced numbering near a thousand. And there are more, dispersed from building to building, in the mountains, everywhere they could find escape from the South. And so they fled here where the bombing has continued and the children are still paralized in fear.
There is so much to tell you I hardly know where to begin. I need to ask you for help with my work, but we are just about to solidify our action plans and I want to give you all confirmed information. I want to tell you about other things I have seen and heard and experienced, but perhaps right now, as i have a hour break, I'll just tell you some of what I believe you don't hear on the news. And yes it's true, I have my own political beliefs about the situation, but I'll reserve those and simply tell you what i have seen, gathered and experienced.
The Humanitarian Situation:
The humanitarian situation is grave and unfortunatley complicated. It is grave in the South because as Israel strategically bombed the roads and bridges, they effectively cut off entire villages and trapped populations. Many have evacuated but some have not. Some were too old, some disabled, some stayed with those who could not leave, others stayed because they had no where else to go, and some stayed because it was their home and their right to stay and not be scared off their land.
And so they have been sending out calls for help, it has been over 20 days, and the International Red Cross has responded. But accordingly to many in the South, they have responded poorly, aiding the easier to reach populations and failing to reach many others. The UN has decided to directly coordinate with the State of Israel giving them the GPS coordinates of all their trucks and effectively gaining Israeli permission before delivering. This has further complicated the jobs and coordination of other NGOs who are not given access to aid certain population by Israel and therefore fear for their security. However, Israel is able to claim strict coordination with the UN and therefore that they are humanitarians.
Israel has also claimed to allow fuel shipments into Lebanon. They have not. There are tankers off the coast of Lebanon waiting to deliver their supplies and they are blocked by Israeli ships. Too many fuel trucks from Syria have been targeted for anyone to attempt to make another try. Cars line up for as far as the eye can see at the gas stations that have not been bombed and wait for there ration of less tha $10 of fuel - which is all they are allowed to recieve at one time. The rumor is that Lebanon may run out in just a few days - further crippling the country and it's citizens. Crippling Hezbollah you ask? No, not at all. They have their own supplies.
The Lebanese Red Cross is stretched to the limit trying to reach these desperate populations in the South, but they do not have the resources and capacities of the International Red Cross. According to aid workers in the south, some NGOs gather aid in a certral location and invite villagers to come get it themselves - a nearly impossible task. Kind of like a person calling 911, and the operator tells them to find the nearest ambulance for help.
In Beirut, it is complicated here as well. You have humndreds of thousands of displaced that have poored into Beirut, and unfortunately they were not well accounted for. A Lebanese Ministry and local NGOs have been tackling the difficult battle of providing aid to all of these people. However, there is no central database. Some NGOs work in overlapping schools and counted the same populations twice - what does this mean? Some schools will receive meals twice in a row, others don't recieve food for two days. Yet another problem, the thousands of displaced that were placed in buildings around the city - they were never counted by the state and therefore recieve absolutely no aid from the state whatsoever.
And there is another probelm. Sometimes there are problems with slogans like "One Nation, One People," because as we know from Lebanese history, it is a country of many peoples who do not identify with one another, and unfortunately can also have great prejudices against those not of their own. Hundreds of thousands of Shiits have now entered some Sunni, Christian, and Druse areas, and though many have poured out to help the displaced, they are wary of the displaced staying too long and "wearing out their welcome." Others are supicious and do not trust them, and a Southern told me that she came from the mountains where many displaced have fled and the local population lock the buildings at night so that the Shiits can not freely move around and cause "trouble."
Back in Beirut, on the verge of a class war, local hotels have opened their doors to some of the poorest people in Lebanon, made comepletely destitute by this war. Well, that is opened their doors if you can pay several hundred US dollars for a week, some hotels are even charging $100/day. The public park I mentioned above? Imagine the Upper East side of Mahattan being overrun with refugees from Harlem who have pitched tents or are sleeping out in the open in Central Park, hang their clothes everywhere, and littering the streets to escape the park walls before dark when they are forced back inside. Unhappy upper class Mahattaners? You betcha.
What everyone can agree on is that tensions are running high. The displaced know they are unwlecomed and resent it to say the least. Those that have "helped" their Lebanese brethern fell that they have done their job and now wish for life to return to normal. I passed by a young Lebanese man yesterday who was expressing his anger at not being able to go the beach because of the war, and has to instead go to the pool now. Everyone suffers in different ways.
Yet, I am not trying to paint you a poor picture of the Lebanese. On the contrary, I have met the most beautiful people who are scarficing their very lives to help their countrymen and who speak for the time of national untiy to be now, if there ever was one. And least we forget Hurricane Katrina and how these very same prejuidces wretched out of our own society - certainly we are no one to judge.
And unfortunately, the international organizations that are here have been no better. I speak not of Foreign governments and imbalanced UN resolutions, I speak of international aid agencies. A women went to an international aid coordination meeting of all the international NGOs, her report - disgusting. She said the meeting was terrible, the organizations bickered among themselves and agreed on nothing.
I fear I have already gone on too long and this is only the tip of the ice burg. I should end my email here before your eyes cross. I will be writing you shortly about my work and our plans and asking for your help if you don't mind.
My opportunity to write you these updates are going to disappear shortly, but i will do my best.
much love,
Aisha
Welcome to our country. Enjoy the war.
the trip so far has been good and we've had great luck. we met a man on the street in Damascus, asked him about a car to Beirut, at roughly midnight we meet a guy who after some negotiation on price, arranges for a car to pick us up at our hotel at 7 a.m.
we went to sleep at roughly 2 a.m. and after 3 flights and not much sleep on the plane, when Adam knocked on my door to wake me i was a bitter woman for a moment until i remembered where i was and jumped out of bed to start the day. we were NOT on colored people time and the driver showed up twenty minutes early! doh!! we jumped in the car and we were off.
it was an airy little 4-door with a middle aged syria driver, thin with think black hair and a mustache that was graying. my friends passed out and i could not get comfortable and instead watched as we speed out of the city and through the desert that changed into a slightly more arid land with lanky green trees as we headed north to the border. a handful of gummy bears served as breakfast (thank you vasudha) as we speed along, the airy car of 7 am becoming a heat trap of traveling metal by 9 am. we made our way off the main highway and continued north through villages and farms. i must have knocked out for a little bit, fore when i awoke i was facing a sign asking to declare all foreign goods leaving syria - the border.
we had been warned that we might have to wait hours at the border because of intense traffic and complications. though i must say it's one of the most pleasant borders i've ever crossed by land - those of you who have crossed the kenya-uganda border or have fled from the burmese border catch my drift! anyway, we didn't even have to present our passports in person in syria, our driver took care of everything and it was quite evident he was well known and well respected. a quick signing of his papers and we were in lebanon in a matter of minutes. i imagined what this border must have been like days ago as we pulled up to lebanese immigration.
the office was clean and cool, full of lebanese officers processing papers. we were called over to present our passports, i went first after filling out an entry form. he immigration officer looked me up and down.
"Aicha," he says in a heavy lebanese accent.
"Yes," i say.
"what is your origin,?" he asks curiously.
"My mother is from Haiti," i respond. You see, normally i'm quite fond of perplexing people with my random background, but all of a sudden saying where my father is from is...not such a good idea. I toy with the idea of syaing he's from palestine (as i've done in the past while in egypt), however it occurs to me that is they ask me for his last name, i'm screwed! it's just too complicated. for the next few weeks, i'm simply a full blooded Haitian. right.
"What is your job?" he inquires.
"I work in Asia," i respond vaguely.
"What is your purpose in Lebanon?" he continues, "Are you a journalist?"
"Tourism," I reply with a bog smile.
He looks up and laughs, and tells the officer next to him, "TOUR SIM! HA!"
I say, "Yes, I hear Lebanon is lovely this time of year!"
They both laugh as he mutters something in Arabic whi;le shaking his head.
DOOM! the sound of the stamp hits my passport on the table.
The immigration officer smiles, "Aicha, Aicha ecoutee moi!"
I laugh and tell him i love that song in french.
an immigration officer behind askes, "An American speaking French?"
I say, "Yes, I'm sorry I don't speak english."
Several officers laugh.
"What are you doing for work," he asks in French.
"Human Rights," i respond in french.
"What?" he says.
DAMN my french!!
"Human Rights," I repeat in English.
"OH! this is very good work!" he says as he translates for his colleagues who all nod in approval.
"Welcome to our country," he says, "Enjoy the war."
We take for into Lebanon, driving along the sea past Tripoli and continuing south the Beirut. It's so hot, we're neith hungry nor thristy and periodically nod off and awaken again in a new town.
Beirut. We reach it from Damascus in only 5 hours. We past by the site of former prime minister Rafik Harir's murder, the buildings destroyed by the bombs remain untouched. Our skillful driver weaves through smaller streets in Beirut congested with traffic and double parked cars, damaged and abandned buildings remain from the civil war. we continue on and find a little quaint restaurant where we are to meet an activists friend who has the keys to the apartment we are staying in.
along the way we meet some NGO workers and are invited to their first coordination meetings tomorrow. the apartment is in a part of town that has been untouched by the bombings, better than i had imagined it is a spacious apartment on the 9th floor with massive glass doors surrounding most of it. goos for air our friend says, but ah...bad for bombs. we thank her as we inspect possible hiding spots. the electricity is sporadic she warms, referring to the elevator that we just took - the small hunk of metal that's like a little oven. we thank her for the advice.
we need cell phones, and sim cards, and email, and food. it's 3 and ewe haven't eaten all day. we all sit down for a minute..and pass out for 4 hours. opps!
we were invited to a performance that night, aside from being a great place to network with activists and media, it was a performace put on by displaced people. they call it "laughter under bombs." I never cease to wonder at the strength of people in times of suffering - indeed the Lebanese are among the ranks of the resilent and the dignified in even the worst of times.
we walk to the theater whcih is full of people, many displaced and watch a great interactive performance full of national pride and hope, and of course - laughter. After the show we meet many activisits, aid workers, and media people. Adam runs into old friend who he worked with on his iraq film. A lebanese activists walks up to me and says i know you. i say, i don't think so and he says - washington dc I'm shocked ! and though we can't exaclty place eachother - it's a small world indeed. they invite us out for drinks and we begin our questioning and information gathering, and followup on some of the activities we heard some lebanese activists would like to organize. we're on it like glue. several meetings planned tomorrow, more for the weeked, several more people are joining us on saturday from around the world.
i know i won't have time for updates like this all the time, i apologize. i just thought i'd get one in now while i can. and while i'm jet lagged as it's almost 1 a.m. The Lebanese are as beautiful as i imagined, incredible mixes of olive and dark skin with light eyes, or intensely dark features - in truth the mixes are many. but aside from the physical, from the activists i met tonight they are intense in spirit, tired, and not ready to roll over and give their country away. They are excited we are here and wish to meet. indeed, there is much to be done.
good night,
with love,
aisha
we went to sleep at roughly 2 a.m. and after 3 flights and not much sleep on the plane, when Adam knocked on my door to wake me i was a bitter woman for a moment until i remembered where i was and jumped out of bed to start the day. we were NOT on colored people time and the driver showed up twenty minutes early! doh!! we jumped in the car and we were off.
it was an airy little 4-door with a middle aged syria driver, thin with think black hair and a mustache that was graying. my friends passed out and i could not get comfortable and instead watched as we speed out of the city and through the desert that changed into a slightly more arid land with lanky green trees as we headed north to the border. a handful of gummy bears served as breakfast (thank you vasudha) as we speed along, the airy car of 7 am becoming a heat trap of traveling metal by 9 am. we made our way off the main highway and continued north through villages and farms. i must have knocked out for a little bit, fore when i awoke i was facing a sign asking to declare all foreign goods leaving syria - the border.
we had been warned that we might have to wait hours at the border because of intense traffic and complications. though i must say it's one of the most pleasant borders i've ever crossed by land - those of you who have crossed the kenya-uganda border or have fled from the burmese border catch my drift! anyway, we didn't even have to present our passports in person in syria, our driver took care of everything and it was quite evident he was well known and well respected. a quick signing of his papers and we were in lebanon in a matter of minutes. i imagined what this border must have been like days ago as we pulled up to lebanese immigration.
the office was clean and cool, full of lebanese officers processing papers. we were called over to present our passports, i went first after filling out an entry form. he immigration officer looked me up and down.
"Aicha," he says in a heavy lebanese accent.
"Yes," i say.
"what is your origin,?" he asks curiously.
"My mother is from Haiti," i respond. You see, normally i'm quite fond of perplexing people with my random background, but all of a sudden saying where my father is from is...not such a good idea. I toy with the idea of syaing he's from palestine (as i've done in the past while in egypt), however it occurs to me that is they ask me for his last name, i'm screwed! it's just too complicated. for the next few weeks, i'm simply a full blooded Haitian. right.
"What is your job?" he inquires.
"I work in Asia," i respond vaguely.
"What is your purpose in Lebanon?" he continues, "Are you a journalist?"
"Tourism," I reply with a bog smile.
He looks up and laughs, and tells the officer next to him, "TOUR SIM! HA!"
I say, "Yes, I hear Lebanon is lovely this time of year!"
They both laugh as he mutters something in Arabic whi;le shaking his head.
DOOM! the sound of the stamp hits my passport on the table.
The immigration officer smiles, "Aicha, Aicha ecoutee moi!"
I laugh and tell him i love that song in french.
an immigration officer behind askes, "An American speaking French?"
I say, "Yes, I'm sorry I don't speak english."
Several officers laugh.
"What are you doing for work," he asks in French.
"Human Rights," i respond in french.
"What?" he says.
DAMN my french!!
"Human Rights," I repeat in English.
"OH! this is very good work!" he says as he translates for his colleagues who all nod in approval.
"Welcome to our country," he says, "Enjoy the war."
We take for into Lebanon, driving along the sea past Tripoli and continuing south the Beirut. It's so hot, we're neith hungry nor thristy and periodically nod off and awaken again in a new town.
Beirut. We reach it from Damascus in only 5 hours. We past by the site of former prime minister Rafik Harir's murder, the buildings destroyed by the bombs remain untouched. Our skillful driver weaves through smaller streets in Beirut congested with traffic and double parked cars, damaged and abandned buildings remain from the civil war. we continue on and find a little quaint restaurant where we are to meet an activists friend who has the keys to the apartment we are staying in.
along the way we meet some NGO workers and are invited to their first coordination meetings tomorrow. the apartment is in a part of town that has been untouched by the bombings, better than i had imagined it is a spacious apartment on the 9th floor with massive glass doors surrounding most of it. goos for air our friend says, but ah...bad for bombs. we thank her as we inspect possible hiding spots. the electricity is sporadic she warms, referring to the elevator that we just took - the small hunk of metal that's like a little oven. we thank her for the advice.
we need cell phones, and sim cards, and email, and food. it's 3 and ewe haven't eaten all day. we all sit down for a minute..and pass out for 4 hours. opps!
we were invited to a performance that night, aside from being a great place to network with activists and media, it was a performace put on by displaced people. they call it "laughter under bombs." I never cease to wonder at the strength of people in times of suffering - indeed the Lebanese are among the ranks of the resilent and the dignified in even the worst of times.
we walk to the theater whcih is full of people, many displaced and watch a great interactive performance full of national pride and hope, and of course - laughter. After the show we meet many activisits, aid workers, and media people. Adam runs into old friend who he worked with on his iraq film. A lebanese activists walks up to me and says i know you. i say, i don't think so and he says - washington dc I'm shocked ! and though we can't exaclty place eachother - it's a small world indeed. they invite us out for drinks and we begin our questioning and information gathering, and followup on some of the activities we heard some lebanese activists would like to organize. we're on it like glue. several meetings planned tomorrow, more for the weeked, several more people are joining us on saturday from around the world.
i know i won't have time for updates like this all the time, i apologize. i just thought i'd get one in now while i can. and while i'm jet lagged as it's almost 1 a.m. The Lebanese are as beautiful as i imagined, incredible mixes of olive and dark skin with light eyes, or intensely dark features - in truth the mixes are many. but aside from the physical, from the activists i met tonight they are intense in spirit, tired, and not ready to roll over and give their country away. They are excited we are here and wish to meet. indeed, there is much to be done.
good night,
with love,
aisha
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